“Surfing is like making love. It always feels good,
No matter how many times you’ve done it”
Paul Strand
No matter how many times you’ve done it”
Paul Strand
People ask me all the time why I love California so much. And you only have to look at a day like today to understand why. 80 degrees at the beach with a perfect swell coming in, 10-15 foot waves breaking perfectly. Now that might seem like a great summer day to you, but it in fact is a fantastic winter dream! It’s 33 in New York, 21 in Chicago and currently 79 in Malibu. This is why I live in California. Anywhere else I would be bundled up in my winter warmest looking like Ralphie from A Christmas Story and instead I am taking out the Bikini and getting some sun.It’s 4 days till Christmas and instead of making a snowman I’m planning to head out of work early (gotta love those Hiatus weeks), grab my board, my wetsuit and my new man and heading up to County Line to enjoy the waves. Looks like Santa is bringing me just what I want for Christmas- Some warm weather, some breathtaking waves, and Mr. Rio Perch. What more could I ask for? I may not have the feelings for Mr. Rio Perch like I did for Mr. Scorpion I wonder if I ever will. Or if I will ever get over this feeling of emptiness that I seem to have since he left. But for now I’m enjoying uncomplicated. And a little uncomplicated and fun is just what I need right now. Looks like this is shaping up to be one hell of a winter break…
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